So my reel had this rubber band thing on it, talked to some people and they said i wouldnt need to use electrical tape just to tie straight to that and tighten it up.
Seemed to work well, had to crank my drag down a bunch to get it on there nice and tight.
I attached some pics, hope i did it right.
That looks plenty tight...but the line is pretty deep in the spool. Having the line so far back from the spool lip can decrease casting distance. The angle which the line comes off the spool is steeper and the line may rub the spool lip as it exits...hence the friction decrease casting distance.
Did you buy only 150 yards of braid?
You may want to...
1) take the braid off
2) add some mono backing onto the spool (by the looks of it, you can put 1/3 of the spool with mono)
3) connect the mono and braid with a uni to uni know
4) spool the braid on top of the mono
The purpose of the mono is to help add bulk underneath the braid, so when the braid is spooled, it is closer to the spool lip.
Ah, gotcha, and ya thats 150yds of power pro 15lb. Ill see how it goes this weekend but ill keep that in mind, if theres issues i can fix it. Thanks!
I learned some great ideas on how to spool line here. Thanks.
I have another question.
This weekend I'm planning on using a Texas Rig and SENKO plastic worms, as well as some crank baits as well.
Should I be using a swivel, a snap, a snap swivel, line tied right to the tackle?
Whats the best way to approach this?
Thanks again
Texas rig and Senko - tie fluorocarbon to braid directly (uni-to-uni or other splicing knot), then tie direct to the hook
Crankbaits - braid to swivel to fluorocarbon to lure...or braid to fluorocarbon to snap swivel. You can skip out the fluorocarbon if the fish are not as pressured, but I do like a length of fluorocarbon (or at minimum mono) to decrease visibility and to increase abrasion resistance (if there are any obstacles or if the bottom has zebra mussels)
Sweet, I still have a roll of fluoro in my bag, Ill tie on a piece. thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the information. I will keep this in mind next time I respool
So, some positives and negatives this weekend.
Positives are, casting was great, and the braid has a crazy amount if feel through it, I could feel weeds, i could feel the lures going thru the water, could feel everything, was awesome. I should of switched to braid sooner.
Negatives are, Caught absolutely nothing. No bites even. Didn't see a single fish in the water or anything. We hit the water at about 6am and stayed until about noon with zero results. Worms weren't even getting bit or anything. Tried about 10 different lures all the while my wife was using a worm and bobber. I decided to switch to that as well, Our worms didnt even get any nibbles or anything.
(10-02-2015 02:45 PM)MuskieBait Wrote: [ -> ]Texas rig and Senko - tie fluorocarbon to braid directly (uni-to-uni or other splicing knot), then tie direct to the hook
Crankbaits - braid to swivel to fluorocarbon to lure...or braid to fluorocarbon to snap swivel. You can skip out the fluorocarbon if the fish are not as pressured, but I do like a length of fluorocarbon (or at minimum mono) to decrease visibility and to increase abrasion resistance (if there are any obstacles or if the bottom has zebra mussels)
This for sure. Even when Im fishing for stream specks I use a six pound braid with a four pound flouro leader. Particularly if Im using live bait in log jams. That way the flouro breaks well before the BRAID