Can you please sort an argument about Rod lure weight rating? Some one thinks I should be able to use 1oz sinker on a rod that is rated for 3/16-1/2oz. My hesitation is with that amount of weight and continous casting of that weight has the potential to break the rod! Is my assumption correct?
Or better yet if you can kindly tell me what you would use for bottom fishing with a 3 way swivel to catch silver bass, white perch etc., (Rod and Reel combo)?
(08-31-2016 10:12 PM)ray6591 Wrote: [ -> ]Can you please sort an argument about Rod lure weight rating? Some one thinks I should be able to use 1oz sinker on a rod that is rated for 3/16-1/2oz. My hesitation is with that amount of weight and continous casting of that weight has the potential to break the rod! Is my assumption correct?
Or better yet if you can kindly tell me what you would use for bottom fishing with a 3 way swivel to catch silver bass, white perch etc., (Rod and Reel combo)?
The rod ratings for lure weight and for line class are the "optimum" numbers for that particular rod design. Using lure weights with lines of the recommended class will give you the best OVERALL performance. However you can go outside these values within reason. Using a 1 ounce sinker wont be a disaster in the making. Ponder this: do you plan to catch fish over 1 ounce in weight?
I agree with OT. Just remember though that the way the load loads the weight (takes on the energy of the cast before it discharges it) is very important. A stiff, solid rod may be more tolerant of larger weights. When going way above spec you may need to change the way you cast.
I have had rods snap on me when using larger than recommended weights.
You can cast weights outside of the rating, but you must adapt you cast. If you are casting too much out of the rating and loads up the rod too much, it can snap. At the point of release, it is also prone to snap if the energy that is stored in the rod is released too suddenly (as opposed to progressively).
It depends on material. Fiberglass is much more forgiving while graphite is often not very forgiving. I have a rod that is rated for 6oz maximum but have cast 5oz + 3-4oz bait out over 60 yards with it and it was fine. I've had graphite rod that was rated for 1.5oz but snapped with only 1oz + maybe 0.5oz bait.
It depends on the action of the rod. Fast action rod stores much of the energy toward the top third of the top (near the tip) on the cast, because the butt end is usually much stiffer. Since the energy is stored toward the tip, it is more prone to breaking. Slower action rod stores much of the energy around the mid section of the rod, or distributes it across 2/3 of the rod. It is often a bit more forgiving. However, when a slower action rod breaks, it is more disastrous since they tend to shatter instead of a clean break. It is much more difficult to repair.
A downrigger rod is much softer than most other rods. It is built differently from regular rods since it is intended to sustain the constant bend of the downrigger weight plus the current of water during trolling. I've considered them in the past as long cast rods but they just seemed too slow for my preference. They can handle much more weight compared to other rods though, but they are not really built to be great casting rods.
Compare both side by side though. You can really only find out by casting them.
Ha! I just realized I replied to two separate questions in one post...oops...
(09-01-2016 10:28 PM)MuskieBait Wrote: [ -> ]Ha! I just realized I replied to two separate questions in one post...oops...
Thanks everyone for your comments....