Salmon Fishing - Swivels on Spoons?

[Boatless]

I have searched this forum but I have not found the specific answer to the question I have - adding swivels to spoons. But my apologies if I missed something and this topic was already covered.

Here is my question - while fishing for salmon from shore/pier using spoons (Little Celos) do some of you add additional split rings and swivels? My search on other forums turned up many different combinations:
-use the spoon out of the box (tie direct to the lure)
-add split ring and tie to it
-add split ring and swivel
-add split ring and swivel and add another swivel for the hook

I have read here that tying directly to a spoon could cause the line to be cut on the sharp edge of the hole - so, adding a spilt ring makes sense to me.

However, I am wondering how critical swivels are - i have seen that when I pull the spoon out of the water after reeling it in that it will spin itself out until the line twist has relaxed.

So, a swivel makes certain amount of sense but a swivel on the hook side?

Most importantly, what happens to the action of the lure if I add a swivel? I have tried swivels and I can feel less action on my retrieves and so I am wondering if I am losing lure action. Thank you,

[OldTimer]

Use a snap (not snap swivel) for such spoons............. and yes - if you tie direct - spoon connection point holes can lead to cut offs after many casts or during the fight of a heavy fish.

To save me some typing - here's some more good info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4-hWQ8yOYk

Cheers,

OldTimer

[zippyFX]

IIRC, MA had a number of line snaps on directly tied spoons last year... Do what OT recommends....

[MuskieBait]

I use a small strong snap so I can change lures easily without retying.

I use a small strong swivel to take out line twist...sometime the swivel is connected to the snap, sometimes the swivel between my leader and mainline connection. Where I put it depends on the which lure I may use...and it is a bit much to go over there here (plus I don't have time to go in depth right now).

As you mentioned, people worry that when they use a swivel, they THINK they are losing lure action for spoons, spinners and crankbaits. This is not true (in fact, often the use of a snap or a split ring improves action to tying direct). Your lure will still perform the way it should. What is lacking is the FEEDBACK to the angler as their lure is rocking, wobbling, spinning...etc. There is often little to no feedback since the swivel takes out the line twist, or, provides a dampener to vibration on the line. Without this feedback, it is often difficult for angler (new or experienced) to determine the proper retrieve speed to give the lure the proper action.

However, this can be observed, learned and experimented by watching your lure's action at the end of the retrieve, and pay close attention to the rate of your line retrieve to determine if you are going too fast or too slow. As always, details, details, details.

[Midnight251]

(09-12-2014 06:25 AM)OldTimer Wrote:  Use a snap (not snap swivel) for such spoons............. and yes - if you tie direct - spoon connection point holes can lead to cut offs after many casts or during the fight of a heavy fish.

To save me some typing - here's some more good info:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4-hWQ8yOYk

Cheers,

OldTimer

Good tips there

[Eli]

main line --- single swivel --- fluoro leader --- heavy fly clip (size 1) --- spoon/spinner

[Boatless]

Thanks everyone - OT the video was great, now I know what those snaps are for - I always wondered why they would sell just the snap without the swivel. I am planning to head out early tomorrow to a west tributary pier to try my luck armed with all these tips.

Thank you everyone!