Something else you might ponder - what is the effect of fishing 20# or 30# braid on a reel designed to handle 8# test?
At least 250% (or more) strain, torque, and pressure is possible on spools, shafts, bearings, gears, and bail arms. Not to mention the greatly elevated impact loadings or shocks at such this higher line strength level.
Similar to driving your car endlessly at 250 km/h..................... it will breakdown.
MA, here's a little bit on magnesium alloy. I never liked magnesium alloy...
"The strength-to-weight ratio of the precipitation-hardened magnesium alloys is comparable with that of the strong alloys of aluminium or with the alloy steels. Magnesium alloys, however, have a lower density and stand greater column loading per unit weight. They are also used when great strength is not necessary, but where a thick, light form is desired. Examples are complicated castings, such as housings or cases for aircraft, and parts for rapidly rotating or reciprocating machines."
"Despite the active nature of the metal, magnesium and its alloys have good resistance to corrosion. The rate of corrosion is slow compared with rusting of mild steel in the same atmosphere. Immersion in salt water is problematic, but a great improvement in resistance to salt-water corrosion has been achieved, especially for wrought materials, by reducing some impurities, particularly nickel and copper, to very low proportions."
"Corrosion troubles may be expected even with protective treatment in poorly designed assemblies where moist air is trapped or where rain is allowed to collect. Where such designs are avoided, unpainted magnesium alloy parts that are oily or greasy operate indefinitely with no sign of corrosion. Magnesium alloy parts are usually painted, however, except where the conditions of exposure are mild. To assure proper adherence of the paint, the part is cleaned by grinding, buffing, or blasting, then given an acid dichromate dip."
So even though the Pflueger has magnesium body and it is light, it is not as rigid as a good aluminum body. There is a reason why big game reels like AVET, Accurate, Penn and many high end fly reels are machined out of aircraft aluminum blocks. Yes, it may be heavier...but it is robust.
These days, people are touting carbon body...like Shimano's CI4...carbon fibers are strong, but they also flex and are not as impact resistant.
Difference in weight on reels - from graphite to most metals = a few ounces or so........... not pounds.
Hyped expensive high maintenance toys.
Not solid tools.
But.......... opinions may vary.
Cheers,
OldTimer
Interesting the corrosion bit is why I was keeping the magnesium alloy pfleuger away from saltwater trips. Although I never heard of anyone having issues, just heresay.
Now I better understand why all the solid reels are made out of aluminum. Thanks for the heads up Ken.
OT, I do find a few oz. makes a big difference when I'm holding the darn thing all day, but that just may be my picky, lazy self I guess. I notice a difference between a 6oz and 8oz reel.
I guess it is all about perspective - in ultra light a few ounces may seem a lot............ in big boy or salt gear you may have 6oz of line alone on the reel you're holding all day, and not even notice it.
Just want to say...
MA, if an extra 2oz is "a big difference" to hold all day, then you are NOT even remotely ready to tackle any tuna...and definitely not ready to fish poppers for tunas...so stop drooling over the video because you'll only dream about it.
For starter, the reels they were using in the video were Stella 14000...which is 24oz.
When you are popping, you're throwing 4oz poppers all day, working it with a rip and wind retrieve all day. When I say rip, you are moving the rod tip about 3-4 feet at a time...and when you retrieve, you are retrieving all that line within a couple of seconds.
And you are definitely not ready for any vertical jigging of any sort. Again, you may be dropping jigs that are 4 to 14oz down depths of 150-300+ feet. You are jigging them with a 3 feet pump of the rod, then drop the rod tip and crank down fast...and repeat this 30 to 50 cranks until you worked the lures up the water column for 100 to 200 feet up...then you drop the jig back down and repeat...repeat all day.
After popping or jigging for an hour, if you happen to hook up, then you need to fight one of those strong running fish for 10min if you work them fast to the boat. Yes, you let the drag do some of the work...but you'll also be likely to fish 10 to 15lb of drag in those conditions...if not more.
So my suggestion to you...if you want to prepare yourself for that type of fishing...
Is to MAN UP, eat some spinach, and stop whining about the extra 2oz that you hold all day on a feather light outfit. If you can't hold an 8oz reel all day, you are weak and pathetic. Better work out your arms and get stronger...Otherwise, you're in for a rude awakening when you start jigging or popping for saltwater gamefish.
I thought all this kayaking only make your arm stronger...but I guess you are still weak
Points taken. I am being fussy.
(06-18-2014 05:23 PM)MuskieBait Wrote: [ -> ]I thought all this kayaking only make your arm stronger...but I guess you are still weak
Arms, what arms? I'm pedaling now
.
"MAN UP, eat some spinach, and stop whining".................. classic and quotable....................smile.