line test considerations

[alcom]

Does anyone have experience landing something heavier than your line test? What are the limits: 2x, 3x? Is this a lot of fun or just plain foolish?

I'm guessing you could bring in a fish a lot heavier than your line test if you used a net or a gaff to get it out of the water. That said, I'm not sure what would happen if I hooked a 12 lb channel catfish on 6 lb test line.

I would expect more bites on light line. But then you have to land the fish.

Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated.

[Giuga10]

It all depends on your drag. My dad fishes for 20 lb Chinook Salmon with 6 lb line. As long as you have your drag set correctly you can get many fish much bigger than your line test is.

[MuskieBait]

Set your drag properly and you can land fish many times the line test. Personally I've landed...

25lb carp on 8lb fluorocarbon leader with 8lb mono mainline

25lb chinook salmon on 6lb fluorocarbon leader with 8lb mono mainline

Estimated 40lb cownose ray on 15lb mono leader with 30lb braid mainline

If you look at some IGFA record, you'll see marlin and sailfish landed on 4lb tippet. I've a copy of May 2007 Sport Fishing Magazine where there was a pending IGFA record of a 1237lb, 14oz Pacific Blue Marlin landed on 80lb line (15 to 1 catch), and there was a pending IGFA record of a 131lb, 4oz Pacific Sailfish landed on 8lb line (15 to 1 catch).

When you are consider whether you should try light line for big fish, you have to consider the area you are fishing and whether you can follow the fish or not.

If you are fishing in an area with a lot of snag, it's probably not wise. If you cannot follow or chase a fish, it's again not wise. If your reel does not have smooth drag and it doesn't have the capacity to hold enough line so you do not get spooled, it's definitely not wise.

[OldTimer]

One should also consider the extra stress you will inflict upon the fish using too light a line that may prolong the fight and reduce the fish's chance of survival if released.

Try to pick a good median strength that will increase hits yet still allow an earlier release.............Also consider that some fish (like channel cats) are not all that line shy.

Cheers,

OldTimer

[MichaelAngelo]

(06-09-2013 09:11 PM)alcom Wrote:  I'm guessing you could bring in a fish a lot heavier than your line test if you used a net or a gaff to get it out of the water.

Even if your line is stronger than the weight of the fish, you should still use a net to get the fish out of the water. You could end up tearing the hook out of the fish's mouth... you don't want that!

[mrclownprince]

What are the advantages of running a really light line, other than not needing a bigger spool?

[MichaelAngelo]

(06-10-2013 11:44 AM)mrclownprince Wrote:  What are the advantages of running a really light line, other than not needing a bigger spool?

Thinner line will cast further on spinning outfits. Also, fish don't see it as well.

[MuskieBait]

Sensitivity - much more sensitivity from 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (better feel for bottom changes, snags and bites)

Memory - much less line coil and stretch from 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (better presentation with light rig or lure or bait when your line can be straight)

Suppleness - much more flexible with 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (better presentation with live bait so the bait can swim around)

Visibility - much less visible with 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (better for fish that is line shy)

Resistance - much less resistance in the water with 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (affects lure action if there is too much drag from the line)

Stretch - much less stretch with 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (better hookset and feel for the fight as opposed to fishing a rubber band)

Cast - much longer distance with 6lb mono vs. 15lb mono (less resistance and weight in the air to slow the lure's momemtum)

Yes, you can always use braid for the benefit of light lines, but sometimes you still need mono in areas with sharp rock or mussel shells since a sharp edge cuts through 30lb braid very easily, but using equivalent 8lb mono or better yet fluorocarbon will be a bit more abrasion resistant.

[OldTimer]

But at the same time heavier lines are:
- stronger (obviously) - and you will get more lures off snags by being able to straighten the hook
- the extra stretch actually assists in tiring a fish during the fight and in avoiding shock breakage
- can survive better in abrasive conditions, or against slicing or shearing.
- resist line twist a bit more.
- will degrade slower in UV.
- you can see them better (good for old guys......smile)

Each has their ups and their downs................

I use many different strengths.... and pick as I play.

Cheers,

OldTimer

[MuskieBait]

Yes, there are both pros and cons for different line strengths. It all depends on what kind of situation you are in.

Obviously, you cannot (well, some of us could) have multiple rods and reels with various kinds of lines and weight of lines. But you can ALWAYS attaches a leader or topshot to your mainline to achieve similar effect.

For example, you can use 30lb braid for its benefits of no-stretch, thin diameter, supple, and sensitive nature, while attaching a 4-foot 15lb fluorocarbon leader for its benefit of low visibility, abrasion resistant and a little bit of stretch.

The goal often is to find the balance between the various properties of various types of line. There is no one way to do things, but you can often find compromises by mixing and matching mainline and leader.

BTW, 8lb is plenty strong for a lot of situations. The strength factor is often overemphasized. A lot of the factors determining whether you can successfully land the fish or not depend on your rod, your drag and your technique. A rod with a slower action can cushion light lines much better and the spring action in the rod actually put more resistance on the fish. A good smooth drag will let you set the resistance very close to the limit of the breaking strength of your line, thus allowing you to apply maximum pressure on the fish without breaking (maximum pressure does not mean the maximum stoppage power of you reel, eg. 20lbs of drag...but basically the upper limit of your line's breaking strength). Experience with fight fish, that is, knowing when you let the fish run and when to hold your ground, as well as being patient with letting the fish run when necessary and not rushing a landing job, certainly helps to bring in big fish with light lines.

Example:

I landed a 30lb grass carp on 8lb mono mainline...it took less than 5 minutes to land the fish from a box cut coral canal (meaning there were sharp ledges of coral rock lining the shore, making landing the fish tricky).

It's not really all that difficult. You just have to realize that there are opportunity for the fish to break you off close to shore, so you try not to rush by bringing the fish in too early. If the fish comes in too early, it still has a lot of strength to run deep quickly (which then you cause the line angle to be too steep and cut you on the coral ledge). Instead, you let the fish play out in deeper water. As long as the fish is in deeper water, the line will go over the ledge without ever touching the ledge. Once you are confident that the fish has tired enough, and it only fights you close to the surface, you can then bring it toward shore closely and keep your drag on a lighter setting. Getting the fish on the surface does not mean completely exhausting the fish, but rather being in control of the fish and being able to turn it to point its head up. You don't want to overplay a fish to complete exhaustion since the fish will not revive well.

A lot of the rookie mistake with a fish close to shore is to either keep the drag setting the same or tighten up the drag to keep the fish from running off again. Instead, you should lighten the drag pressure. When the fish is close to you, there is only a very short stretch of line between your rod tip and the fish. The rod is also likely pointed up so there is little bend left in the rod to cushion a sudden surge. With light lines, this is where most fish are broken off. With a lighter drag, it will allow the fish to run off without breaking your line, especially when the fish finally sees the net. The fish is already fairly tired (well you should have tired it out in deeper water in the first place), so even if it runs off, it will be a short distance.

Especially with rocky or weedy areas, it is important to keep the fish's head up when the fish wants to run. With a light drag, you can still allow the fish to run, but using the rod to keep the head up as high as possible. This prevents the fish from going too deep and getting you into trouble. With a tight drag, you can only drop the rod angle to cushion the line to prevent the fish from breaking you off, but when you drop the rod angle, you allow the fish to dive deeper into snags.

And as in all case of landing fish, a good net boy always helps. An experience net person will know when to back off and not force the landing (thus avoid knocking the fish with the net or getting the line tangled), and when to go for the net job and put the fish directly in the bag.